Homeowner entity glossary

Fiberglass-mat or organic-mat roofing tiles surfaced with mineral granules in asphalt — the most-installed residential roof in the US.

Standing-seam or screw-down metal panels — most often galvanized steel, Galvalume, or aluminum — used as a long-lifespan residential roofing system.

The plywood or OSB sheathing nailed to the roof rafters that supports underlayment and shingles — the structural surface of your roof.

A self-adhered rubberized-asphalt membrane installed at roof eaves, valleys, and penetrations to block water intrusion from ice dams and wind-driven rain.

Multi-layer laminated asphalt shingles that create a dimensional, shake-like look while offering higher wind and impact ratings than 3-tab shingles.

Fired clay tiles installed over reinforced framing, common in Spanish, Mediterranean, and Southwest architectural styles.

Thin metal pieces installed at roof joints, valleys, chimneys, and walls to direct water away from seams and penetrations.

A water-resistant layer (felt or synthetic) installed between the roof decking and shingles to provide a secondary weather barrier.

Channels mounted at the roof eaves that collect rainwater and direct it through downspouts away from the foundation.

A balanced system of intake (soffit) and exhaust (ridge or box) vents that moves air through the attic to manage temperature and moisture.

An electric HVAC system that moves heat in both directions — cooling like an AC in summer and heating by extracting outdoor heat in winter — using a reversing valve.

A fuel-burning or electric forced-air heater that warms air in a heat exchanger and distributes it through ductwork.

The sheet-metal, fiberglass, or flex piping that delivers conditioned air from an HVAC unit to each room and returns it for re-conditioning.

ACCA-standard room-by-room calculation that sizes a heating and cooling system to the actual heat gain/loss of a specific home.

A split-system cooling unit with an outdoor condenser and indoor evaporator coil that distributes cooled air through ductwork.

A ductless heat-pump system with one outdoor unit and one-to-many wall- or ceiling-mounted indoor heads, controlled per zone.

A Wi-Fi-connected thermostat that learns occupancy patterns and remotely controls HVAC setpoints to reduce energy use.

The indoor blower-and-coil cabinet that circulates conditioned air through your ducts; paired with an outdoor heat pump or AC condenser.

A heat- or energy-recovery ventilator that exchanges stale indoor air for fresh outdoor air while transferring heat (HRV) or heat and moisture (ERV).

A pleated furnace/air-handler filter rated on the MERV scale (1–16) for particle-capture efficiency.

Cross-linked polyethylene tubing used for hot and cold water distribution — flexible, freeze-resistant, and joined with crimp, clamp, or expansion fittings.

A storage-tank or tankless appliance that heats potable water for showers, faucets, dishwashers, and laundry — fueled by gas, electricity, or a heat pump.

An electric pump installed in a basement or crawlspace pit that automatically discharges groundwater away from the foundation when the water level rises.

An on-demand water heater that heats water as it flows through a heat exchanger, eliminating the storage tank.

An electric water heater that extracts heat from surrounding air to warm water at 3–4× the efficiency of a standard electric tank.

Rigid copper tubing (Type L or M) joined with soldered or pressed fittings for potable water supply lines.

The valve that stops all water flow into a home, typically located where the supply line enters the basement, crawlspace, or garage.

An under-sink electric grinder that pulverizes food scraps so they flush through the drain line.

The buried lateral pipe that carries all household wastewater from the home to the municipal sewer or septic tank.

A valve installed at the main water inlet that reduces municipal water pressure to a safe 50–70 psi for household plumbing.

The main breaker box that distributes incoming electrical service from the utility to individual circuits inside the home.

A ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacle that trips within 1/40th of a second when it detects current leaking to ground — required in wet locations.

An arc-fault circuit interrupter that detects the unique signature of an electrical arc and shuts off the circuit before it can ignite a fire.

A 240-volt home electric-vehicle charger that delivers 6–11 kW, fully charging most EVs overnight.

Pre-1950s electrical wiring using porcelain knobs and tubes with ungrounded cloth-insulated conductors.

A secondary breaker panel fed from the main panel, used to extend capacity to garages, ADUs, or remote parts of a house.

A device installed at the main panel that clamps voltage spikes from the grid or lightning before they reach household wiring.

A hardwired or battery-powered device that detects smoke or carbon monoxide and alarms occupants.

A switch that safely transfers selected household circuits between utility power and a backup generator, preventing dangerous backfeed.

Cylindrical light fixtures installed flush into a ceiling, typically using LED retrofit modules for general or task lighting.

Photovoltaic modules that convert sunlight into DC electricity, paired with an inverter to produce AC power for home use or grid export.

A lithium-ion energy storage system paired with rooftop solar that stores daytime production for use at night or during grid outages.

The device that converts DC power from solar panels into AC power usable by your home and the grid.

A utility billing arrangement that credits solar owners at or near retail rate for excess power exported to the grid.

A 30% federal income-tax credit on residential solar and battery storage system costs, currently scheduled through 2032.

A web/app dashboard that reports panel-level or system-level production, allowing detection of underperforming panels.

A financing arrangement where a third party owns the solar system on your roof and you pay a monthly lease or per-kWh power purchase rate.

An unsecured or home-secured loan used to finance solar panel and battery installation, typically with 10–25 year terms.

The angle (tilt) and compass direction (azimuth) of a solar array, which together determine annual energy production.

A standalone solar system with batteries that operates without any connection to the utility grid.

Insulated glazing units (IGUs) with two panes of glass separated by an argon- or krypton-filled spacer — the modern residential standard.

Insulating glass units with three panes and two argon- or krypton-filled gas spaces for maximum thermal performance.

A microscopically thin metallic oxide coating on window glass that reflects infrared heat while letting visible light through.

Replacement windows with frames extruded from PVC, the most popular residential window material due to low cost and zero painting.

Window frames made of pultruded fiberglass — stronger, more stable, and longer-lasting than vinyl but more expensive.

Traditional window units built with solid wood frames, often clad in aluminum or fiberglass on the exterior to limit maintenance.

A window meeting IRC code minimums for emergency escape (5.7 sq ft openable, 24" tall, 20" wide, sill ≤44" off floor).

A rating (0.15–1.20) of how much heat passes through a window assembly — lower is better insulating.

A 0–1 measure of how much solar heat passes through a window — lower numbers block more heat.

Secondary exterior or interior windows installed over single-pane originals to add an insulating air gap.

A home equity line of credit — a revolving, variable-rate loan secured by your home, with a draw period (typically 10 years) followed by a repayment period (10–20 years).

Replacing your existing mortgage with a larger one and taking the difference in cash — typically used to fund renovations or consolidate debt.

A fixed-rate, fixed-term second mortgage that delivers a lump sum upfront, secured by the equity in your home.

An FHA-insured renovation mortgage that lets buyers or owners finance the purchase or refinance plus the cost of repairs in a single loan based on after-improved value.

An unsecured fixed-rate installment loan used for renovations, typically $5,000–$100,000 with 2–7 year terms.

A short-term loan that funds new home or major addition construction in draws, then converts to or is replaced by a permanent mortgage.

A conventional renovation mortgage that lets buyers or owners finance home purchase plus renovation in one loan, up to 75% of as-completed value.

A loan available to homeowners 62+ that converts home equity into tax-free cash without monthly payments, repaid when the home is sold or vacated.

Property-Assessed Clean Energy financing — funds energy/water upgrades and solar through a special assessment on the property tax bill.

An FHA or conventional mortgage rider that lets buyers finance qualified energy upgrades on top of the purchase mortgage.

An annual service contract that pays for the repair or replacement of major home systems (HVAC, plumbing, electrical) and appliances when they fail from normal use.

Extra liability coverage that sits on top of your home and auto policies, paying when an underlying policy's liability limit is exhausted.

A separate policy covering damage from rising water — issued through the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) or a private carrier — because standard homeowners insurance excludes flood.

The most common homeowners insurance form — open-perils coverage on the dwelling and named-perils coverage on personal property.

The portion of a homeowners policy that pays to rebuild or repair the home's physical structure after a covered loss.

A claims-payment method that reimburses depreciated value rather than replacement cost — payout = replacement cost minus depreciation.

A claims method that pays the cost to rebuild or replace damaged property with like-kind-and-quality without deducting depreciation.

The portion of a homeowners policy that pays for bodily injury or property damage you accidentally cause to others.

Coverage for additional living expenses (hotel, meals, storage) while your home is uninhabitable due to a covered loss.

A rider added to a standard HO policy that covers damage from sewer or drain backup — not covered by base policy.

Engineered stone countertops made from 90–95% crushed quartz bonded with resin pigments — non-porous, scratch-resistant, and consistent in pattern.

An electric cooktop that heats cookware directly via a magnetic field — no flame, no glowing element, and 85–90% energy efficient at the pan.

Natural stone slabs cut, polished, and installed as kitchen or bathroom counter surfaces.

A countertop made from glued-up hardwood strips (maple, walnut, cherry) finished with mineral oil or polyurethane.

Stock, semi-custom, or custom cabinet boxes and fronts that form the structural and visual core of a kitchen.

A freestanding cabinet unit in the middle of the kitchen, often with seating, additional storage, sink, or cooktop.

A ducted or recirculating ventilation hood mounted above a range or cooktop to capture cooking smoke, grease, and odors.

An undermount, drop-in, or farmhouse sink installed in the kitchen counter for food prep and cleanup.

A built-in or portable appliance that washes dishes through hot-water spray cycles, typically using 3–5 gallons per load.

A tile, glass, stone, or stainless-steel surface installed between countertops and upper cabinets to protect the wall.

A curbless or low-curb shower enclosure — typically glass on at least one side — that replaces a traditional tub or step-in shower.

A deep, freestanding or alcove tub designed for full-body immersion, typically 19–22" deep vs 14" standard.

A water-flushed waste fixture; modern WaterSense models use ≤1.28 gallons per flush.

A combination cabinet, countertop, and sink installed as the primary storage and washing station in a bathroom.

A preformed acrylic, fiberglass, or tile-ready waterproof base that channels water to the drain in a tile or stall shower.

A ceiling-mounted ducted fan that removes moisture and odors from a bathroom; code requires venting to outdoors, not the attic.

A pressure-balanced or thermostatic valve that mixes hot and cold water and protects against sudden temperature swings.

An electric resistance mat or hydronic loop installed under tile to warm the floor surface.

Sturdy stainless or chrome bars anchored into wall blocking near toilets, tubs, and showers to assist mobility and prevent falls.

A showerhead rated at 2.0 gpm or less (vs the federal 2.5 gpm max) that conserves water without sacrificing perceived pressure.

Luxury vinyl plank — a multi-layer vinyl flooring with a printed wood-look surface, clear wear layer, and click-lock or glue-down installation.

Solid or engineered wood plank flooring installed by nail-down, glue-down, or floating method.

Multi-ply flooring with a real-wood top layer (1–6 mm) bonded over plywood or HDF substrate for dimensional stability.

Glazed clay tiles fired at high temperatures, installed with thinset mortar over a cement backer board or uncoupling membrane.

A floating floor with a photographic décor layer fused to an HDF core under a wear-resistant overlay.

Tufted nylon, polyester, or wool surface attached to an underlying pad, sold by square yard or square foot.

An existing concrete slab ground and polished to a smooth, glossy finish, optionally stained or dyed.

A two-part resin coating applied to concrete to create a seamless, chemical-resistant, decorative or industrial floor.

The structural plywood, OSB, or concrete layer beneath all finish flooring, fastened to the floor joists or slab.

A thin layer (foam, cork, felt, or rubber) installed between the subfloor and finish flooring for cushion, sound, and moisture control.

The motorized unit (chain, belt, or screw drive) that opens and closes a residential garage door — increasingly Wi-Fi-enabled with smartphone control.

A sectional or one-piece overhead door that closes the largest opening in most homes, typically 8–16 ft wide.

Torsion or extension springs that counterbalance the weight of a garage door so the opener motor can lift it.

An epoxy, polyaspartic, or polyurea coating applied over concrete to seal, protect, and beautify a garage floor.

Insulation added to garage walls, ceilings, and the garage door to moderate temperature in attached or finished garages.

A natural-gas, propane, or electric heater designed to warm a garage workspace without the limitations of residential HVAC.

Modular wall-mounted shelving, slatwall, or overhead racks that lift gear off the floor and free parking space.

A dedicated 240V, 30–60A circuit run from the main panel to a garage receptacle or hardwired EV charger.

Passive or powered ventilation that exhausts vehicle exhaust, fumes, and humidity from a garage.

A standard exterior door installed in a garage wall for pedestrian entry without raising the overhead door.

A gravel-filled trench with perforated pipe that collects groundwater and directs it away from the foundation by gravity.

A monolithic or post-tensioned concrete pad poured directly on grade, supporting the home without a basement or crawlspace.

A 1.5–4 ft tall unfinished space between the ground and the first floor, used for access to plumbing, electrical, and HVAC.

Interior drainage, exterior membranes, or hybrid systems that prevent groundwater from entering a basement.

Epoxy or polyurethane injection that seals non-structural cracks in poured concrete or masonry foundations.

A foundation system that elevates the home on concrete piers and wood or steel beams above a vented crawlspace.

Helical or push piers driven beneath an existing foundation to transfer load to stable soil and arrest settlement.

Clay-rich soil that swells when wet and shrinks when dry, exerting pressure on foundations and causing settlement or heaving.

Shaping the soil around a home so it slopes away from the foundation at a minimum of 6" of fall over 10 feet.

A sub-slab depressurization system with a fan and vent stack that exhausts radioactive radon gas from beneath a foundation.